What a professional TV mount actually costs, which bracket fits your wall, how to hide cables legally, and when a job is worth doing yourself.
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Nearly every installation problem traces back to one of these. Get them right and the rest is straightforward.
Drywall, brick, concrete, metal stud and lath each need a different fixing. This is what determines whether a mount is safe.
Concealment looks better, but a standard power cord run inside a wall violates code in most jurisdictions.
Screen centre should sit near seated eye level. Above-fireplace mounts nearly always sit too high.
Typical costs
Indicative US market ranges as of August 2026, for planning rather than quotation.
| Job | Typical range | Main variable |
|---|---|---|
| TV mount, drywall + studs | $150 – $300 | Screen size and bracket type |
| TV mount, cables concealed | $250 – $550 | In-wall power kit and wall access |
| TV mount over fireplace | $350 – $600 | Masonry fixing, pull-down mount |
| Soundbar or speaker mounting | $80 – $200 | Number of channels, cable routing |
| Security camera, per camera | $150 – $350 | Cable run length, power source |
| Network point / Wi-Fi access point | $150 – $400 | Distance and route to the rack |
DIY or hire
A fixed mount on drywall with accessible studs is a genuine two-person DIY job with a stud finder, a level and a drill. Plenty of people do it well.
Some jobs are worth handing over — not because they are mysterious, but because the failure modes are expensive:
Services
Brackets, wall types, height and cable concealment.
Projectors, screens, seating distance and room treatment.
Placement, PoE cabling, storage and privacy law.
Structured cabling, access points and rack layout.
Conference rooms, digital signage and distributed audio.
Lighting control, hubs, protocols and what to avoid.
Questions
In most US metro areas a straightforward mount on drywall with studs runs about $150–$300 including the bracket. Concealing cables inside the wall adds roughly $100–$250, and mounting on brick, concrete or over a fireplace typically pushes the total to $350–$600. Our price guide breaks down what drives each figure.
No. The wall type decides the fixing, and the fixing decides what weight is safe. Drywall must be anchored into studs — drywall anchors alone are not adequate for a television. Brick, concrete and masonry need appropriate sleeve or expansion anchors. Metal studs and lath-and-plaster need specific approaches. See wall types and fixings.
It is popular and it is usually a compromise. The screen ends up well above seated eye level, which causes neck strain over a long viewing session, and heat rising from an active fireplace can shorten the electronics' life. If you do it, use a pull-down or tilting mount and check the mantel's surface temperature during use.
Match the mount to your TV's VESA pattern — the spacing in millimetres between the four threaded holes on the back — and to its weight. Buy a mount rated comfortably above the actual weight rather than at the limit. Full detail in choosing a TV wall mount.
Yes. Surface raceway painted to match the wall is the simplest option and works on any wall type. In-wall routing looks better but requires cutting drywall and, for power, an in-wall rated kit — running a standard power cord inside a wall is a code violation in most US jurisdictions. See hiding TV cables.
Describe the wall and the screen and we will tell you what fixing the job needs.